Legend has it that Marc Anthony could sense Cleopatra’s arrival by the fragrance that preceded her, a myth that speaks to the timeless power of scent. Though modern perfumery has evolved, the sensory experience of fragrance remains deeply woven into human culture, connecting us to memory, ritual, and emotion. This enduring relationship with scent was at the heart of a recent discussion at the Aranyani Pavilion, where a panel of India’s leading fragrance experts gathered to explore the sacred and the sensory in Indian traditions.
Anita Lal, founder of Good Earth, explained that the human connection to scent predates civilisation. Before we walked upright, our noses were close to the ground, attuned to the world through smells—detecting danger, identifying food, and, later, seeking comfort. The very word perfume originates from the Latin “per fumum,” or “through smoke,” a nod to the ancient practice of burning resins and herbs to capture their essence. Over millennia, this primal sense evolved alongside us, embedding itself in our rituals and daily lives.
Vivek Sahni, founder of Kama Ayurveda, drew connections between fragrance and Ayurveda, India’s ancient system of medicine. In Ayurveda, every scent is classified as heating or cooling, wet or dry. Clove, for instance, is warming; citrus is cooling; lavender is neutral, able to both calm and uplift depending on one’s mood. Synthetic fragrances, Sahni pointed out, often amplify a single note, sometimes clashing with individual body chemistry and even causing discomfort. Natural scents, by contrast, tend to harmonise with the wearer, supporting well-being in subtle ways.
Yet, the panellists agreed that artistry is not exclusive to natural perfumery. Simran Lal, of Nicobar and Paro, acknowledged the creative value of synthetic perfumes while emphasising that India’s spiritual relationship with scent is deeply philosophical. She referenced the five tanmatras of Indian classical thought, which link each sense—including smell—to our awareness. In Indian rituals, fragrance acts as a bridge between the material and the divine. The Mahamrityunjaya mantra, for example, describes Shiva as “Sugandhim,” the fragrant one; offerings of sandalwood, flowers, and jasmine become sacred acts.
India’s fragrant landscape is rich and varied. Jasmine, rose, sandalwood, oud, and vetiver each carry their own stories and uses. Vetiver, or khus, is particularly beloved: though its roots are nearly odourless when dry, they release a cooling, earthy scent when wet, making them a seasonal staple.
Rituals involving scent are woven into daily life. Simran Lal described lighting dhuna in the evening and plucking jasmine at dawn, simple acts that infuse the day with fragrance and meaning. Her bathing routine, for example, changes with the seasons—jasmine in summer, vetiver in monsoon, orange blossom and frankincense in winter—transforming an ordinary bath into a mindful, almost meditative experience. Anita Lal likened bathing with fragrant oils to meditation itself: a moment of peace as scented water pours over the skin.
For Vivek Sahni, creating and testing oils is a constant ritual. Though traditional Ayurvedic oils may lack the sweet scents of commercial perfumes, their herbal aromas carry therapeutic benefits, easing stress and supporting mood over time.
As the discussion turned to practical advice, the panellists advocated for simplicity. Pure lavender or chamomile oils, diluted and applied to pulse points, can calm the mind after a long day. Scented candles, however, were cautioned against; many contain phthalates, which can disrupt hormones, so only those with certified safe ingredients are advisable.
Perhaps the most traditional form of personal scenting is ittar—an oil-based scent distilled from sandalwood. Just a drop behind the ears or on the wrist is enough, offering an intimate fragrance that lingers close to the body.
Ultimately, the panel concluded that reconnecting with scent need not be complicated or costly. Whether it’s adding mogra to bathwater, anointing the skin with sandalwood, or simply savouring the aroma of a freshly peeled orange, fragrance offers a path to mindfulness and memory. As Anita Lal put it, a day without fragrance is a day wasted—an invitation to reawaken our oldest, most primal sense.
